Heirloom Patch Quilting Tips

Get Organized
Never get rid of your scraps from that finished quilt.  Sort and store them by color (in bins) if they are larger than a fat quarter.  Smaller scraps can be strip cut into 2 ½ inch strips to save for another project. Beckie has a bin with 2 ½ inch strips, 3 ½ inch strips, etc. This can also be done for 4 or 5 inch squares. When the bin gets full you have a precut quilt!  Save those triangle pieces that you have cut from half square triangle projects etc to store in yet another bin. (I am seeing a pattern here).

This system is a great way to not only store your scraps but organize them for future use. Some of my favorite quilts are those I have made from left-over scraps. It is fun to look over a finished project and remember where the fabrics came from. It is also great to be able to make that extra quilt here and there for a special someone in your life.

Also realize that the scraps don’t need to necessarily match when you are doing a project with scraps. Choose a pattern that fits your collection (many jelly roll patterns would be great to use for 2 ½ inch strips that you have stashed) and go to work!


Squaring Up
All piecing requires trimming. Even the best quilters trim each block to make sure that it is squared up before completing the piecing of the entire quilt. Personally, I usually square up all my blocks at the end of piecing all of them. Some people square each block as it is finished. Either way you get the job done.

It is important in order to achieve a quality finished product. Even using a stack-and-whack or Buggy Barn pattern requires squaring up seams and finished squares. Before piecing the final quilt together, I square up all my squares and then start piecing into rows.

After adding each border, all of the borders, corners and sides, should be squared up. This becomes especially important when you are adding more than one border. Keeping the quilt square becomes even more important when you are adding several borders. Adding a new border to a crooked border only distorts the new border and any additional borders added after that. Quality piecing requires time and patience.  < Back to Top


Cleaning Dye-Bleed Stains in Antique Quilts
My first consideration was dry cleaning – sounds logical, but upon further research – dry cleaning is a no-no. The chemicals used in dry cleaning may cause additional damage because the fabrics are so delicate. Not to mention, the chemicals are anything but dry.  Washing an already bleeding fabric is not a good idea – another logical solution. Knowing the instability of antique fabric dyes is an important factor here as well.

Research suggests that vacuuming with a low suction vacuum removes dirt that is trapped in a quilt, and delays further damage from that dirt. Depending on intended use, this may be the only cleaning necessary. If there are large tears, etc, use a thin fabric as a “screen” to minimize further damage to those areas.

General airing out is a good idea, to eliminate smell. Use a sheet under and over the quilt, laid out on the lawn, to minimize the effects of any elements (sun, etc). Don’t hang the quilt from a clothesline, as this is too much stress on the quilt, and may cause additional damage.

If you choose to wet wash an antique quilt, know the risk that you are taking. Wet washing can permanently damage an antique quilt – damage that most likely is not reversible. Use a gentle soap such as Ivory Snow or Deft. There are also special products such as “Soak” designed to textile and quilt laundering. You can use your washing machine as a wash tub, but use your hand for agitating. Rinsing and spinning on a gentle cycle may be more gentle than hand-wringing the water out. Either way be very careful. Lay flat to dry with a sheet under and over it for protection.   < Back to Top


Improving Your Batting Game
Batting is an important part of any quilt. Choose batting wisely and your quilt will last for a long time – skimp on the batting and regret it.  Good choices include:

Hobbs - A very popular batting is the Hobb’s 80/20 natural batting. This is a low loft batting (almost flat) that is very popular because it gives an antique style look to your quilt. The 80/20 number indicates the fiber content. The 80% number gives you the cotton content, the 20% number gives you the polyester content. The polyester bonds the batting together. So…when you wash it you still have a quilt left and it doesn’t end up life a fluffy heap in the dryer. Washing an all-cotton batting (or un-bonded polyester for that matter) will cause the fibers to pull apart and it will not retain its shape.

Also, Hobbs manufactures other batting to note:
Hobbs 80/20 is also available in black suitable for dark fabrics.
Hierloom Wool is a very nice 100% wool batting. Light weight and retains heat well.
Polydown is a 100% polyester batting that is low loft, hypo-allergenic with a down-like feel.
80/20 Fusible eliminates the need for basting.

Quilter's Dream - 100% cotton batting that is specially processed to prevent shifting and lumping. It can be quilted up to 8” apart and is very warm and lightweight. It is 100% natural and environmentally friendly. Lovely batting for a 100% cotton (be careful in purchasing some off brand 100% cottons because they may not hold together through the washing process).

Other notable Quilter’s Dream batting:
Dream blend 70/30 batting.
Dream Green – made from 100% recycled plastic bottles.
Dream Angel Select – 100% Flame retardant with no Bromides or PBDE’s (these are questionable chemicals used in most flame retardant processes).
< Back to Top


The Importance of Good Backing
There have been times (many, many times) when I have purchased the top quilt fabrics only. Then I have used my scraps (if large enough) for the backing, but I have had to go in search of matching fabrics. Often, with a Moda designer, the fabric designs change, but the colors repeat themselves over time. Typically even though the line of fabric may have disappeared, you should be able to find a matching solid or tone-on-tone by the same designer in a newer fabric line. I have done this quite often – even sometimes buying different fabrics in three yard increments until I have the 9 yards for a queen sized quilt back (I made my bedspread like this and I flip it over from time to time).

There are also other options. High quality muslins can be found (which we recently added to our website). Muslins have only a 1-2% shrinkage rate - definitely better than a poly-cotton for longevity. Also many solids, such as Kona Cottons or Bella Solids, are less expensive than a printed fabric. Many solids are currently made in so many colors it is easy to find a color that “goes” if not “matches” perfectly.

Many companies are also making backing in 108-inch widths. These backing fabrics are a great cost savings at $12 - $14 a yard. If you consider a quilt size of 90 x 108 inches, a regular 45 inch width of yardage at premium quilt store price ($8.50 per yard) is $51.00. That is a conservative 6 yards – which will barely cover the 90 x 108 inches. If you are to purchase 108-inch backing fabric, you could purchase 3.25 yards. The purchase prices for this back would be $45.50 – and you would have ample backing.  < Back to Top


Yard Dyes, Textured Weaves, and Herringbone
These three things may not sound like they have anything in common…but they do. They are all related in the type of thread used in the weaving process. All of these fabrics use pre-dyed yards to weave patterns, designs and colors into the finished fabric.

Yard Dyes (also know as Homespuns) are a plaid woven fabric. The design of the plaid is created by using different colors of thread in the weaving process. They are more loosely woven than your regular mercerized print-dyed cottons, so it gives is a unique look. They often are used for county and down-home looks in quilting patterns. Very fun to work with, but difficult to un-pick – If you make an error in machine quilting on homespun – it won’t be fun or easy to unpick. It is easy to pull on the fabric threads while unpicking a homespun fabric – especially if you have used a thread stronger than the cotton fabric (this means that the fabric fibers will break before the sewing thread fibers will). Homespun are good fabric to use as stash builders, because they can be mixed and matched easily. One of my favorite quilts is made out of homespun in bright colors – no need to match – because the style creates the continuity.

Textured Weaves are a different sort of fabrics that can be made from any type of fiber. These fabrics are also made with different colors of thread instead of printing. Unlike a smooth quilting cotton fabric, textured weaves have more body and intricate designs. It can be a fun idea to use as a background fabric to add dimension. Some manufacturers will make textured weaves that match with yarn dyes, creating an array of items that are fun and different to work with. This particular fabric pictured has a woven criss-cross pattern in the fabric weave. It adds a tactile dimension to your quilt.

Herringbone weave is a broken-twill weave that gives a zigzag effect. It is created by using two different colors of thread in one fabric. Often used in clothing, it is also produced as a quilting fabric. It is a strong print that would best be suited for a backing or a dynamic project such as a two tone quilt. It will add a variety and texture to a quilt that plain printed fabric cannot.  < Back to Top


Sustainable Consumption - Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
The ideas is that we use the items that we have (fabric in clothing, etc) and turn them into something useful again. If you have clothes that your children have outgrown, or if there is a hole in the garment which makes it beyond repair, we find a new use for it by cutting it up and creating a new item.

Quilting was a concept that began by sewing together extra scraps from handmade clothing, or using old and worn clothing to create a new item. It was a way to create warm bedding without too much additional cost. Pieces were cut and hand sewn to create very elaborate designs, using appliqué or strictly piecing a quilt. Grandmother’s flower garden quilts are a fine example of this. None of the fabrics had to match to make the item beautiful. Beauty came from the skill, and the ability to name the items from which the new quilt was made (children’s clothing especially).

Several years ago, I made a jean quilt. I was young at the time and I spent a long time cutting 5 inch squares to create the top. I cut through seams and pockets to collect enough fabric to finish the 65 x 85 inch top. I am sure that my mother thought this a great project for me because it kept me busy for quite a long time. I chose blue and white flannel striped backing and tied the quilt in light pink! I still have that quilt. My kids love it because it is sooo heavy and warm! My only concern is that it is difficult to put into my washing machine because it is so big. And my dryer has a hard time getting it dry, so I would probably make it smaller (if I were to do it over again).

I would not make a quilt larger than a standard twin sized quilt, unless you don’t mind visiting a laundomat. I would maintain the same types of fabric throughout the top to create continuity. This will also make it easier to work with. If you are using jeans fabric with stretch (quite common these days), be careful not to stretch the pieces you are working with. You may consider basting them before piecing together. Offset each row so that you're not matching corners/rows – for example start every other row with a half square so that you can keep some of the bulk out of the seams. I would avoid cutting and sewing through seams and pockets, if possible – just because it is easier. Use a 100 needle or jeans needle to keep from using so many. I would also use a cotton/poly blend of thread – it will hold up to the jeans fabrics better. Use a lightweight batting – 80/20 adds bulk. I would not use flannel backing, but something substantial and not quite as thick.  < Back to Top


The Ins and Outs of Flannel
Flannel can be woven in two different weaves – twill and plain weave, with plain weave being the most common. The weave is commonly hidden by the nap or pile of the flannel fabric. Plain cotton flannel can be napped on one side or both. Napping is process which draws out the end of the woven fibers and creates additional softness in the fabric. Some manufacturers “brush” only one side of the flannel and if the fabric is a yarn dyed weave, it will make the fabric reversible.

True flannel gains its softness from the loosely spun yarns from which it is woven. Flannel is commonly made for quilting from cotton. The tighter the weave, the better the quality you can expect.  < Back to Top


Stacks of Fabric and the Beauty of Red
I love to stack my fabrics for a particular quilt on a shelf or table. This gives me an opportunity to look at the fabrics and visualize what the finished product will look like. It helps me to see if I have too much of one fabric or another - and if that will create an over dominance of that color.

Red fabric is one of my favorite. I have been taught that all of your reds do not need to match. A variation of reds in a quilt gives a unique look and visual quality that one shade alone cannot do.  < Back to Top


All About Wool
Discovering Content of the Wool – There are two ways to determine the quality and makeup of a fabric that is purported to be 100% wool.  The burn test for wool will produce a smell like that of burning human hair. Any “melting” of the fabric while burning will indicate that the fabric is a blend with a synthetic fiber.  Another test for 100% wool content is a bleach test. Place a scrap in one cup of chlorine bleach overnight. One hundred percent wool fabric will leave no residue in the cup.

Felt vs. Felted Wool – In my opinion, I believe these are two completely different things. Because felted wool is very popular, felt has also become very popular. Quite simply, felt is matted fiber. Wool become felts when moisture, heat and pressure are added.  Wool felt on the other hand is a high quality fabric or fiber that has been washed, shrunk, or felted by a needle or similar tool for the purpose of crafting a different look from the original product. If you have ever washed a wool sweater that came out smaller and denser, you have felted an item of wool. The original purpose and use for a crafted item such as a penny rug, hooked rug, or braided rug, was to recycle old clothing for another purpose. But it was initially washed or “felted” to create a more durable product.

I have felted all types of scrap wool by using boiling water and my clothes dryer. I learned from experience which fabrics were 100% wool fibers. They become more dense during the felting process and the colors tend to mix together creating all kind of new colors. After a piece of wool has been felted, its raw edges will not ravel and this makes it more conducive to cut and use for wool appliqué. Wool blend fabrics will not produce the same quality product for appliqué. It does not “felt” and the synthetic fiber can melt creating a rough fabric unsuitable for use.

Heirloom Patch stocks only 100% wool fibers. If you would like to purchase a fat quarter, specify that information in the comment section and order ¼ yard of fabric. These fabrics are ready to felt on your own for a high quality and durable item. I enjoyed the process of learning involved in the process of felting. I have used left over scraps from a multitude of sources, and mixed them with new fabrics to create new life from old items.  < Back to Top


Seam Allowance
All projects will have a standard seam allowance. When I was younger, I learned to sew with a 5/8 inch seam allowance on clothing. We used this allowance to adjust for sizing and fitting of the article of clothing.  With machine piecing/quilting your seams allowance is a standard ¼ inch. But sometimes figuring the ¼ inch seam is not always easy.  Most sewing machines will have markings to the right and left of the presser foot as a seam guide. Most of us assume that these measurements are accurate – but are they?

The best way to establish accuracy is by doing a test sample on your machine. Using two pieces of scrap fabric, stitch a “normal” ¼ inch seam on your machine (as you would usually do). Then, using a seam gauge or ruler, measure your allowance. Your seam from the fabric edge including the stitching should be ¼ inch in width. Any variation in that amount will create inaccuracy in your piecing and seaming. Let’s calculate how far you'd be off with multiple seams if you're off by 1/4 inch:

8 seams x ¼ inch = 2 inches lost in seam allowance
24 seams x ¼ inch = 6 inches lost in seam allowance

Now that is established, what if your seams are off by another 1/8 inch (which is fairly common and easy to do).

8 seams x 3/8 inch = 3 inches lost in seam allowance
24 seams x 3/8 inch = 9 inches lost in seam allowance.

Let’s consider, if you were piecing a section with 8 seams. Those 8 seams are supposed to be sewn to a section with 24 seams; the first 8 sections will be off by 1 additional inch, while the 24 section piece will be off by an additional 3 inches! If you are also mixing in whole blocks and a variety of other blocks, you have a pattern for disaster. All of those sections will not match up and fit together if you seams are off by only 1/8 inch. If your seams are off by more than 1/8 inch – say another ¼ or even ½ - you will have more of a struggle trying to complete the project. Can you say frustration? I have been guilty of this several times over.

On the last quilt that I pieced, I decided to get it right. I tested my seam allowance first, and I was off. So, I adjusted my allowance by using a seam guide. Seam guides can be purchased or ordered from your machine manufacturer or local quilt shop (if they sell machines). It is a small device that includes a screw to secure into the machine base, next to your pressure foot. It is used to as a guide for your fabric. It will ensure that you are continually “getting it right” in terms of seam allowance.

I also correctly laid out my squares using the vertical and horizontal grains. Horizontal grain should run left and right (the most stretch is the horizontal weave). Vertical grain should run up and down (the least stretch – or no give when pulled). If you are sewing blocks into horizontal strips, then your stretch will allow you to match seams when sewing the strips together. And – it will be a lot easier because you aren’t fighting against your fabric in order to match those seams.

My quilt turned out beautifully in spite of any concerns I had to the contrary.

As you will notice from this discussion, understanding the directions of the weave and grain really become essential to completing a quality product. Most quilters can and have sewn projects using other methods without checking these items and it has been fine, but, you will remember fighting to get the project to go together. Or you will have that one seam that you just couldn’t get right…    < Back to Top


Warp and Weft
Warp - Warp yarns are the vertical threads which are stretched in the weaving process. This creates a more stable vertical weave that does not stretch – when fabrics are cut on the length of the yardage – it does not have “give”.

Weft (or woof) yarns are the horizontal threads woven through the warp threads to create the intricate woven pattern. Weft is the yarn that is wound to a shuttle or bobbin and passed between alternating warp threads. The initial result is that the weft yarns are weaker, because they do not have to be stretched. But the finished product will have more stretch in the horizontal direction, because they were not stretched in the weaving process.  < Back to Top


Cotton vs. Polyester Fabrics
As a quilter or seamstress, I am sure that you are familiar with both the terms cotton and polyester. I remember my mother having a dislike for 100% cotton, because of its propensity to wrinkle. Polyester on the other hand does not have the “wrinkle” problem, but has other issues that need to be considered when choosing particular fabrics.

Why not polyester? Polyester is a synthetic or man-made fiber. It is a petroleum/coal based product which will melt when exposed to heat. If the fiber content of a fabric is in question, doing a burn test on a small square of fabric will cause polyester to burn and melt at the same time. It will give off a sweet smelling black smoke while burning and any portion that drips will cling and adhere to any surface that it lands on. If you consider the property of polyester while burning, it probably goes without saying it will melt under a hot iron. Also, it is more likely to stretch and pucker when sewn and pressed.

What about polyester and cotton mixed? The problems with sewing cotton and polyester mixes are several. Along with the pucker and stretch issues, polyester will deteriorate cotton threads over time. So, if you are piecing a cotton quilt with polyester thread, the polyester will actually “eat” away the cotton over time and you will be left with deteriorated cotton pieces. Polyester cotton blend fabrics tend to pill and ball up over time.

Also, polyester is stronger than cotton. If you piece a cotton fabric with cotton and polyester mixed thread, under stress the thread is more likely to tear the cotton fabric, before the thread itself will break. In an ideal situation, you would rather have the thread break or pop, because it will be easier to repair. Long arm quilting or hand quilting will create the same issues. On the other hand a cotton thread, used to sew or quilt polyester fabric, will not be as strong as the fabric which has been sewn and the threads will pop and break. Also, the cotton thread will not have the stretch and give of the polyester fibers in the fabrics – so it is even more likely to fail under this application.

Why use quality cotton? Cotton is a natural fiber, created from the pod of the cotton plant. Cotton will absorb 24-27 times its own weight in water, and is stronger wet than dry. It can withstand higher temperatures without burning and holds dyes more effectively. Cotton is the principle clothing fiber used throughout the world and irons well under high temperatures. It holds up well over time and looks beautiful for years to come.

When doing a burn test on a small piece of cotton fabric, the item will produce a steady flame that smells of burning leaves and produce a dry crusty ash. A 100% cotton fabric will not dull your rotary cutter or needles. Using a cotton thread with 100% cotton quality fabric will produce a quality product. My mother used to say “If it is worth doing, it is worth doing right.”

I used to create and sell crafts in my home. I would buy very cheap, discount store cottons to tea dye for that “antique” look. I learned very quickly the order in which I could dye my fabrics. If I was using quality cottons, I dyed them first. The discount store reds, blues, blacks, and greens came last (in that order). Because of the quality of the dyes in those fabrics, they would bleed their colors into my tea and I would have to start over or ruin all of my fabrics. In fact, I still have some green fabrics that were so discolored I was never able to find a suitable use for them.

I don’t do crafts anymore, but I learned a valuable lesson. If I was going to work long hours on a quilt, I was not going to use discount store fabrics. The materials were not worth the effort for a product that could be ruined just by hot water and heat. A quality 100% cotton fabric, constructed with 100% cotton thread will produce a high quality result that is machine washable, if you desire to do so.

The reason that Heirloom Patch carries Presencia thread is that they are made from high quality, long threads of Egyptian cottons. They produce the strongest cotton thread on the market, which does not produce or create lint in your sewing machine. We searched and attended classes at the 2007 Spring Quilt Market to find this thread. It is not stocked in most stores at this time. We will be adding a full line of this thread to our online catalog as quickly as possible. All of Heirloom Patch kits come with a spool of Presencia thread. We will also be adding Presencia Embroidery Floss at some point in the future. It is the only floss on the market that can be bleached by chlorine bleach and still hold its original color.

I hope that this information has been educational for you. I have gathered much of the information from many sources over the years, but especially from Beckie Olson of Thimble and Thumb. I will use and do use information from her book “Quilts by the Slice, second edition” that was published in 1987 & 1992, but is still valid and helpful today. Beckie is a champion for proper quilting techniques and a wealth of knowledge to me. Her books can be found on amazon.com, but are not currently in print.  < Back to Top


Textiles 101  
Many of you, like us, have learned to quilt in phases. We each pick up a bit and pieces from here and there compiled over time. We would like to share tips with you in order to make your quilting and piecing easier.

One basic element in cutting and piecing that is often overlooked in quilting is the direction of the grain. If you have constructed clothing, you will know that all pieces are aligned and cut on the length of the grain to ensure proper drape. The length of the grain does not have the stretch that is evident on the width of the grain. If you tug on a piece of fabric, you will notice that the length of the grain has less give and stretch than the width. If you are piecing with an item like a jelly roll, all of those piece are cut on the width of the grain which creates additional stretch in the piece of fabric being sewn. Be careful when piecing with fabrics cut on the width because the stretch can cause distortion if pulled and tugged in the piecing process. If by contrast you are using a charm pack, lay out all of your fabrics on the length (tug on each piece and lay them out with the length running vertically), and seam them with all of the length grains running parallel to the seams into strips. Then as you seam the strips together you will be working on the width grain and the stretch on the fabric will allow you to more easily make corner seams and such. You are now working with the fabric and not against it in your piecing.

This is also true when attaching a border fabric, if you cut all of your border fabric on the length of the grain, you create less stretch in the finished edge. This does two things – first it creates more stability if you are having your quilt long-arm quilted, and it also eliminates distortion (if you have also squared your quilt correctly before you attached the borders). Heirloom Patch kits include border fabrics that are cut on the length of the grain. This eliminates piecing the border (which looks better) and gives stability to the finished quilt.  < Back to Top